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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.